Bouzoki

Autumn Interrail 2024 — Story #4

Taken directly from my travel journal

Theme song while reading this entry: 🎵 Petheno gia sena by Lavrentis Machairitsas

As yesterday we’d arrived in Thessaloniki late at night, we did the logical thing: collapsed straight into bed. The next morning, me and my travel buddy Job woke up early to take a walk with our friend Georgia before she dashed off to work. Breakfast happened at Little Big Café – a tiny, adorable alleyway café where the number of cats casually roaming around rivaled the number of humans.

In the bathroom, a huge world map invited customers to mark where they were from. So, naturally, I grabbed a marker and proudly added Bulgaria, while having a spontaneous chat with some German girls doing the same. Global diplomacy at its finest – in a bathroom.

After Georgia left for work, Job and I wandered up to the city’s watchtower, where we stared dramatically at the sea like philosophers on the verge of great revelation. Then we sat on a stone wall for a bit, listening to the city – including some Bulgarian speakers, which made the world feel pleasantly small.

Next stop: the handmade bazaar, where we were supposed to meet our mutual friend Joanna the Eldest, an artist who makes ceramics. Except… there were SO MANY PEOPLE at the market that we circled the place twice before finally locating her stall. Along the way we admired (and sometimes struggled to avoid buying) countless handmade treasures – and Job found some vintage Donald Duck magazines, because of course he did.

Later, the two of us strolled along the coastline and sat by the bay to watch the sunset, peeling warm chestnuts freshly bought from a vendor. It felt like the most wholesome travel montage ever filmed.

In the evening we met up with Georgia, Joanna the Eldest, Job, and Peracles (truly an iconic name, again) at a Greek bar, where we drank Greek beer and talked about everything and nothing until late.

The Slow Day of Legends

The next day… we woke up in the afternoon. No shame. It was a very slow day of horizontal existence, mostly spent in bed watching another episode of De Mol.

Eventually we crawled out into the world and caught yet another sunset by the sea, then wandered toward Aristotle Square, where I met my Greek friend Anastasia. We feasted on vegan gyros, then strolled along the beach and stumbled upon a group dancing Kotsari, which is basically a Greek version of a super-fast horo where everyone looks calm and collected at first and then suddenly breaks the sound barrier.

After that, Anastasia took me to see the exhibition center where her mum works. Then I returned to meet Job, and we joined Antonios and Cleopatra (yes, that’s the real combo), heading out for rakomelo – rakia with honey, AKA Greece’s warm hug in liquid form.

Despite having no map, we somehow managed to find our way home. Miracles happen.

The Day We Were Supposed to Leave (But Didn’t)

Next morning, I got up early and packed – because we were heading to Athens. Sunny weather, good mood, I was walking on sunshine. I met with my friend Eftychia for a walk around the center. Then we met with Job and Georgia, only to discover that Georgia and Eftychia already knew each other from a youth center. Greece is basically one small village with excellent food.

We wandered into a music store where I played bouzouki – both the 4-string and 3-string versions – while Job experimented with the kalimba. I even bought a jew’s harp and the guy gifted me a pick. Musicianship achieved.

Next, we headed to Actionade, the youth center where Georgia and Eftychia originally met, because Eftychia volunteers there. Except… we were late for our train. Very late. So we decided to stay an extra day. As one does.

We wandered into this very old vintage bookshop run by a Greek grandpa – the kind of place that smells like dust, history, and philosophical disappointment.

The grandpa took one look at Job, scanned him from head to toe like a human measuring tape, and declared loudly in Greek:

“Who is this beautiful tall Nordic man? Where are you from?”

Job, naturally confused but flattered, answered:

“The Netherlands.”

The grandpa nodded with deep approval, as if Job had confessed to being descended from Zeus himself.

Then he turned to me.

“And you?”

I smiled proudly.

“Bulgaria!”

He paused. Squinted. Tilted his head. And with the energy of someone dismissing a faulty cassette tape, he simply went:

“Meh.”

Just “Meh.”

Like my entire geographic identity was a mildly disappointing pastry.

We left the bookstore laughing.

We grabbed food, then visited Joanna the Eldest at her place. She has two dogs and a kitten, which automatically made it the best place on Earth. We danced, I played the guitar – a Greek song called Petheno gia sena which would become a travel anthem – and everyone sang along. It felt like a movie.

We went to bed around 3 AM and had to wake up at 5 AM for the train.
So realistically, I slept for maybe one hour. Heroic effort.

Travel Notes

City: Thessaloniki
Days spent: More than planned, as always
Best surprise: Accidentally joining a Kotsari dance circle
Best food: Vegan gyros (shockingly good)
Most dramatic moment: Running late for the train… twice
Most Greek moment: Drinking rakomelo
Total cats seen: Too many to count, not enough to satisfy me
Song of the day: Petheno gia sena
Sleep achieved: Questionable

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